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| Pond plants are broken down into two basic categories: hardy and non-hardy.
The agriculture zone that you live in will determine what you will do with your
pond plants for the winter.
The first thing you will need to do is refer to the
Zone Hardiness Chart and determine which plants you have in your pond that
are hardy for you. Keep in mind there will be some varying factors on winter
survival in the pond and the USDA Zone hardiness charts are general guidelines
as to how hardy the plant may be.
For example a plant that is only hardy say in zone 7 may actually survive the
winter at the bottom of the pond if it is a mild winter in zone 6. But if it is
a colder, harsher winter than normal the same plant that is hardy in zone 7, may
die even though you live in zone 7. So my best advice to you is if the plant is
expensive or has sentimental value, if there is a doubt if it will survive the
winter, plan to make other arrangements for the plant other than keeping it in
the pond for the winter. Most folks will just discard inexpensive plants, and
replace them the following year just like they do the annual flowers that they
plant in their flower beds each spring.
Any plant that is hardy for you can be over wintered in the pond. All you
will need to do is drop the plant to the bottom of the pond for the winter.
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| In the fall you will notice that on those first cool, frosty nights that many
plants will go untouched for the first frost. Some pond plants may even take a
few frosts. The reason for this is that the pond water is warmer than the air
temperature. The larger the pond, the more likely this is to be true. Larger,
deeper ponds will take much longer to cool down than smaller, shallower ponds.
The fog that develops over the water on those cool crisp mornings is a sure sign
that winter is approaching. One thing to consider about the fall. Just like the
trees, many pond plants have unique fall colors that can add interest to the
pond. Experience over the years will show which plants are aglow with fall
color. For plants that are hardy for you, you may leave them in the pond until the
top is damaged by frost. Once that happens, take a sharp pair of pruners and
prune all the foliage off of the plant so that it is level with the top of the
pot. You should be able to see the crown of the plant. The crown is the center
where all stems emerge from the plant. Take care not to cut below the crown or
the plant may die. Once all the foliage is removed it is just a matter of
placing the pot on the bottom of the pond where the water is a few degrees
warmer during the winter.
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As mentioned above many will purchase plants knowing that they are not hardy
and treat them as annuals. Water hyacinths and water lettuce are two classic
examples. These plants are inexpensive and most will just buy new ones the next
year. As soon as these plants are damaged by the frost it is best to toss them
on the compost pile. If left in the pond once they are frost damage they just
become more wastes for the filter to pick up and will contribute to build up of
debris on the bottom of the pond. It is best to remove them before they become
total mush and wreck havoc in the pond.
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| More expensive plants that are not hardy can usually be brought into the
house for the winter. Keep in mind that most do not need to be submerged in
water for the winter. In fact the only plants that will need to be submerged are
the lily-like aquatics. Lily-like aquatics have to have water over them at all
times. Examples are Poppies, Mosaic, water Hawthorne, Floating Heart. To over
winter this type of plant you will need a deeper container. A 5-gallon bucket
works great if you only have one or two of this type of plant. If you have a lot
of lily-like aquatics, shop for a Rubbermaid container that will hold several
pots. These plants like warmer water so you will want to keep them in a warmer
room in the house in front of a sunny window. You may even be surprised with
blooms during the winter months too if light is sufficient and the water is warm
enough. An aquarium heater will help keep the water warmer if the room is on the cool
side.
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| This group includes Umbrella palms, Papyrus, Taro, Star grass, and Sweet
Flag. And of course there are many more in this group so don’t be afraid to
experiment. These plants make great houseplants. And best of all they do not
need to be submerged. Simply place a large saucer under the pot and keep the
saucers filled with water at all times. For best results place them in a sunny
window. If you have a large number of these plants that you would like to save,
purchase a plastic kiddy pool or two. These can be set up in an out of the way
place like a spare room or basement. You will also want to purchase a grow light
or two and a timer. Set the timer so that it is on abut 12 to 14 hours a day.
Keep a couple of inches of water in the kiddy pool at all times.
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| Lotus should have all the leaves and stems removed once the plant is damaged
by frost. The best way to over winter them is to put them on the bottom of the pond. It
is a good idea once the foliage is removed to stretch a pair of old panty hose
over the tub to keep the fish from digging in the pot during the winter if they
become bored.
Some like to bring Lotus inside for the winter. They do need a cool above
freezing spot in order to over winter successfully. Cold enough to go dormant
but warm enough so that it will not freeze.
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Remove the damage leaves and flower stems. And place them on the bottom of
the pond. Hardy lilies are just that, if you can grow them in the summer where
you live, they will winter over just fine in the bottom of the pond.
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| This one is a bit tricky. Tropical lilies are only hardy to zone 8 so unless
your zone is 8 or greater, you will have to make other arrangements for them for
the winter. Many in colder zones value the beauty of these lilies and just
replace them every summer. If you are zone 8 or less all is not lost if you are
willing to do a little work in the fall. Once the water starts to cool down
these plants will decline because their ideal water temperature is 70* or
better. I have however still had them in bloom in my pond in the fall with water
temperatures in the low 60’s. Variety seems to make the difference in how long
they will last in the cooler fall water. What I do is when the water is getting
cooler, I remove the larger flower buds and bring them in the house and put them
in a vase of water so I can get a few extra days enjoyment out of them. Most
tropical lilies are very fragrant. Treat them as you would any other cut flower
in a vase of water. Bring the pot with the lily in the house and set it in a large Rubbermaid
container in a cooler room in the house. Add a few inches of water to the
Rubbermaid container. They do not have to be submerged but the soil must stay
wet. Unless you keep your home real warm, they will go dormant.
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Generally speaking fall is not a good time to divide. It is best to divide
early in the spring just as the plant is breaking dormancy or just after it has
broke dormancy. The reason for this is that most plants need warm water and
sunlight for the roots to grow. For the most part we just don’t have those
conditions in the winter home. Most plants will rot in cold water before the
plant has a chance to grow new roots. Leave the dividing and transplanting until
spring.
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Insects love our dry winter homes, especially spider mites, aphids and white
flies. Outside these are generally not problems because the predators will keep
them in check. Or if they were a problem you probably had to spray them with an
insecticide or other means to keep them under control. In the house they will be
much more noticeable and can build up large populations before you realize they
are there. It is a good idea to spray each plant with a forceful spray from a
garden hose. Take extra care to spray the backsides where the little buggers can
hide. If you do see insects it is probably a good idea to treat with an
insecticide that you can purchase from your local garden center. I would suggest
that you spray one leaf to test for sensitivity before you spray the whole
plant.
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